24/02
My first day in Nepal consisted of arranging all my practical stuff. Changing money, getting a Nepalese sim-card, arranging all my documents to get my Indian visa and look around what I could do around Kathmandu.
After giving away my passport for my Indian visa I called the Vipassana center where I would do a 10-day meditation course. They told me that there was no way they would accept a copy of my passport, they needed the original document. And obviously I couldn’t give them the original document because it was in possession of the Indian Embassy for the next 10 days or so… After being a little bit disappointed I decided to accept it and start looking for other options. Eventually I found a volunteering project and a host-family to stay with. I would go there on the 2nd of March and stay for a week and afterwards move on to Pokhara.
25/02
The next day I went to the bus station and asked to go to Durbar Square in Patan. A bus driver said he was going there so I hopped in and after driving for 45 minutes I realized Patan wasn’t this far… I asked the woman sitting next to me where we were heading and she replied me happily “Bhaktapur”. Oh well, I wanted to do Bhaktapur anyway so it didn’t really matter. At first I was thinking about not entering, because of the high entrance fee (15$). But I took an hour long bus ride, I might as well visit it while I am there.
It turned out to be a really peaceful and architecturally gorgeous small town. When children came begging for money I offered them a candy (which Fanny sent me), which they accepted with a broad smile on their cute faces. After having some good conversation with some local Nepali people I decided it was time to head back. I was excited to pick Silke up from the airport that evening! After waiting for a really long time (due to organisational problems in the airport) I surprised her when she walked out of the bathroom unknowingly. While waiting for her backpack we started updating each other on the past 4 weeks we spent separated. The talking continued while having dinner and stopped when we turned off the lights and wished each other a good night.
26/02
A cold and rainy day we didn’t really do much. When we went for a tea and a hot chocolate in the late afternoon we met 2 incredibly friendly men from Australia. Who were in Kathmandu for business. We shared experiences, talked a lot and eventually our evening turned into a small but very interesting pub crawl. We said our goodbyes and wished each other the best of luck. Again another unexpected encounter which was fun and amazingly enriching.
27/02
(Happy birthday Daddy!)
After going to the Indian Embassy for Silke’s visa we met the friendly man who arranged the trip Silke and her parents for the next 3 weeks. After these formalities we decided to walk up to the Swayambu temple (aka. Monkey Temple) which was situated on the other side of the river up upon a hill. Wow, once we got there we were offered an enchanting view over Kathmandu valley.
It was a clear day, so we were lucky to enjoy the view by bright sunlight. We had lunch on a rooftop restaurant on the hill next to the temple and walked back to our hotel. We both noticed the friendly and open-hearted attitude from the moment we set foot in Kathmandu’s airport. Yet every day I get to see a side of Nepali people which is even more warm-hearted than the day before.
28/02
Today we would be picking up Silke’s parents from the airport, so cute to see how they missed each other!
Tears were rolling down from 3 pairs of eyes, adorable! In the evening we introduced them to one of our favourite local restaurants and it was wonderful to see how happy they all were to be reunited! Their happiness was contagious!
01/03
The four of us started our day by walking to Durbar Square, we contemplated its greatness and even saw the ‘Kumari” this is a young girl, which they believe to be the “living goddess”. The living goddess lives in one of the buildings on Durbar Square until she has some blood loss. Whether it is a small wound or her first period, whenever she bleeds for the first time, they replace her for a new living goddess. Afterwards we left for The Boudha Stupa. An impressive temple surrounded by a lot of small and cosy restaurants. After lunch we walked through the rain to our next stop, Pashupatinath.
This is the cremation temple. Dead people are subjected to some rituals before the actual cremation takes place. There is also a building called “The hospice house” where people who are dying can wait to be cremated. In this house their is also marijuana, provided by the government. You can see this a their way to soften the pain. Also in death Hindu people are not equal. There are multiple cremation places, 1 for the royal family, 1 for monks and people with prestige and multiple ones for the other people. When you die your family gathers for the ceremony.
When the man who died has a son, it is the job of the eldest son to light the fire. If it is a woman who died, it is the job of youngest son. If it is not yet an adult, it is his/her father who has to light the fire. A woman may never light the fire! The fire must also be started by the throat/mouth, because they believe that the soul leaves the body through their mouth. This visit was one of the most impressive ones so far. I had never before seen a dead body and now I saw them carrying dead people, setting them on fire, etc.
It was shocking, but I wasn’t disgusted. I can actually see the beauty of these events.
After going back to the hotel and having a nice Nepali dinner it was time to let all the sights and thoughts slowly sink into my mind. Goodnight!